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White Wines
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2004 Domaine de la Bongran, Macon Villages, Jean Thevenet
£17.50
White Burgundy in a league of its own. Rich and golden, with honeyed depths and racy minerality; a wine for buttery scallops or fish carpaccio. Mâconnais vigneron extraordinaire Jean Thévenet makes awesomely intense Chardonnays using methods others shun as commercially suicidal. Risking calamitous weather, his grapes are picked over-ripe, often yielding wines of surpassing richness. Fermentation occurs without cultured yeasts and can last up to 2 years. Truly amazing. "Apple pie in a glass. Oh alright6 then - tarte tatin - if you want to be picky. Delicious nonetheless." Wine & Spirit, May 2008
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2002 La Tèrtre du Lys d'Or
£18.50
Lustrous Sémillon-Sauvignon with enticing aromas of lime blossom, quinces, figs and toast. Serve chilled with Roquefort, crab, asparagus or desserts. Key to the sweetness of Bordeaux's Sauternes is 'noble rot', triggered by autumnal river fogs, that shrivels grapes to syrupy succulence. The rot sets in slowly; up to 8 successive vineyard sweeps are needed to strip affected bunches. Thanks to low yields (2-3 glasses per vine), Sauternes are complex and can last decades.
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2005 Grillo IGT, Bruno Fina
£9.50
Bruno Fina spent the 1990's running Sicily's experimental cellar at Alcamo, applying radical techniques to Sicilian varieties in pursuit of their true vocation. He advised growers making plantings - so he knows where the best grapes are, and what they can do. His cellar, near Erice, was ready for the superb 2005 vintage. Grillo, hitherto reserved for the production of Marsala, shines bright here in deliciously crisp, fragrant, full-bodied form. Try it with tuna or swordfish steaks.
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2002 Tokay/Pinot Gris, Rolly-Gassmann
£15.75
Tokay-Pinot Gris: a speciality of Alsace, spicy, honeyed, musky and exotic. Wonderful with honey roast pork. Pierre Gassman, champion of biodynamic cultivation in Alsace, insists on late harvesting and lengthy cellaring after bottling, creating amply sweet yet balanced styles. In-depth knowledge of his domaine (a complex mosaic of limestone and marls, created when two Alsace families united at the altar) and pursuit of low yields promote precise expression of different 'terroirs'.
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2004 Riesling, Rolly-Gassmann
£12.99
Pierre Gassman insists on late harvesting and lengthy cellaring after bottling, creating amply sweet, weighty yet balanced wines. This sumptuous, aromatic Riesling, ideal with poached fish or cheese fondue, offers a complex palate of fresh, honeyed, citrus zest flavours. Such depth of character is evident in all the wines from this celebrated, biodynamically-cultivated domaine, tended by generations of the Rolly and Gassman families since the mid-17th century.
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2004 Soave Classico Superiore, Pieve Vecchia, Fasoli Gino
£12.99
Natalino Gino's father went 'green' twice over. First the herbicides he'd been advised to spray on his vineyards (planted by patriarch Amadio Gino in 1925) to the west of the Veneto's Soave region made him unwell. As a result, in 1980 he set out to achieve organic certification, finally succeeding ten years later. Here, grapes harvested late and early were half fermented in barriques, resulting in a complex style: fresh flavours of honey, angelica and mandarins smoothly-integrated with oak.
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Samos, Vin Doux, Union de Samos (half)
£5.75
Based in ruggedly beautiful Samos since 1934, the island's co-operative winery takes its role as keeper of the 3,000 year-old local dessert wine-making tradition very seriously. Their vineyards, planted to the sensuously-scented Muscat grape, cloak the slopes of Mount Ampelos at breathtaking altitudes. Fortified to 15%, this lovely wine offers a rich, sweet mouthful of toffee and fresh peach flavours and a dry honey finish. Sensational value.
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2005 Pinot Blanc, Cave de Pfaffenheim
£7.50
Plump and soft, yet crisply fruity, with ripe apple and pear aromas, a textbook Alsace Pinot Blanc that's almost as much of a mouthful as its source: 'The Cave Vinicole de Pfaffenheim and Guberschwihr'. Not the most marketable name, but wines from this ultra-reliable co-op (often 'Best in France') are sought-after worldwide. The place is supplied by contented, well-paid vignerons, many of whom own Grand Cru vineyards. They'd doubtless drink this lovely white with river fish or quiche.
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2005 Les Vignes Retrouvees, Plaimont Côtes de Saint-Mont
£6.99
A fascinating compendium of Arrufiac, Petit Corbu, Petit and Gros Manseng grapes that combine to create fresh, clean greenage-like flavours.
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2005 The Growers Semillon, Mitchell Estate, Clare Valley.
£9.50
Abundant honeysuckle and herbaceous aromas, succulent ripe fruit and a long finish.
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2006 Montesierra Blanco, Somontano
£4.50
Fresh and lively, clean flavours of ripe pears with a touch of angelica.
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2002 Chardonnay 'A Mon Pere' Collection Reservee, Vignoble Guillaume, Vin de Pays de Franch
£13.99
Winner of the 'Best Chard in the world'. Despite that rather scarily lofty accolade, it is good!
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2006 Riesling Gobelsburg,
£9.99
The purity and vivid clenliness balance the middle palate beautifully, and this is without a shadow of doubt, one of the best value and most scintillating Rieslings tasted in recent times.
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2004 Chardonnay, Vignoble Guillaume, Vin de Pays de Franch Comte
£5.50
Soft melon skin aromas with distinctly lively, fresh citrus/grapefruit flavours. Immediate appeal and great potential
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2006 Chateau des Antonins Blanc, Entre Deux Mers, Bordeaux
£7.50
Gold medal Sauvignon-Sémillon with lively green fruit and a hint of orange peel. Delicious with river fish. Rather like Getafix, Asterix' sagacious herbalist, the monks of St. Antoine had a miraculous potion, the 'St. Vinage', comprising wine from the order's vineyard and aromatic plants. Geoffroy de Roquefeuil's vines are in the same hallowed ground (classic Graves pebbles); since 1985 he's revived the monks' tradition of wine, minus the herbs and extravagant medical claims.
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2006 Chardonnay Reserva, Casa Rivas
£8.75
A lavish step up in quality from our regulation Casa Rivas Chardonnay. Rich and weighty yet exuberant. The latest addition to our Casa Rivas range (showcase for Chilean brilliance) comes courtesy of grandiose, century-old Viña Tarapacá. Their 2,600 hectare Rosario de Naltagua plot lies in a loop of the Maipo River, 40 minutes' invigorating drive south of Santiago. Ideal growing conditions, notably cold nights and hot days, produce stylish, characterful wines like this.
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2006 Saint Veran, Denis Jeandeau
£10.99
Damn expensive for a St Veran but do not be fooled by this lowly nomenclature. This is top quality white Burgundy. Old vines give an intensity of flavour and subtle oak ageing brings elegance and finesse. Superb.
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2007 Jean de Vignes, Demi Sec, Vin de Pays du Gers
£4.99
Same grapes as the Jean des Vignes Sec, but in a slightly sweeter, fuller and rounder style. Try with grilled fish. Our 'Jean des Vignes' range is designed to showcase the best in good-quality everyday drinking from southern France. Made in this case by the ultra-reliable Plaimont winery, who have an admirable focus on polishing the finer characters of the region's local grapes (here Colombard and Ugni Blanc), bringing intriguing styles to a wide audience.
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2007 Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Les Grandes Vignes du Roy
£8.99
In the mid-1990s, Philippe du Roy of Châteauneuf's famed Domaine de Villeneuve joined forces with consultant Philippe Cambie, seeking to produce 'authentic' (rather than flashy, souped-up and overblown) southern Rhône wines that owed their character to natural processes. Minimal intervention is the mantra here. Their blend of perfumed white Rhône grapes is ample and silky-textured, with aromas of pears, citrus and pineapple. Perfect with chicken caesar salad.
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2005 Coteaux du Vendomois Sec, Cave des Vignerons
£4.50
Surprisingly full flavoured with earthy fruit and a honeyed edge. Dry and lasting.
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